Hey all! Just wanted to share a few tips that I often share with clients in the salon, as well as stylists that attend my Nioxin classes =)
First of all, when I am talking about fine hair, I am talking about hair that has a very small diameter. A lot of clients who have dense, fine hair—a ton of hair but the hairs are all small (and usually limp)—have to deal with a lot of the same concerns as people with sparse, fine hair.
1) Use light product! I love Nioxin products, especially the Diamax at the root, followed by either Bodifying Foam or Thickening Gel roots to ends, but this post isn’t about product, it’s about technique. Whatever you use make sure it has been formulated for fine hair, even if you have dense, fine hair. Many with fine hair try to go without product due to their hair being weighed down, but I recommend using something. Fine hair is generally more delicate because there are fewer layers of the cuticle. The cuticle is made up of the protective, outer layers of the hair. When hair looks fuzzy or feels rough, it is from the cuticle being popped open, dried out or damaged. Nioxin’s Therm Activ Spray is also incredible as very light weight, yet silkening, thermal protection.
2) Assess the root area. Some hair grows out of the head like this: | ; other hair grows out of the head like this: \ ; and other hair grows out of the head like this: — . If the hair is growing out of the follicle very flat in one direction, the hair will tend to lie more flat. This is also where you see the cause of cowlicks. Since fine hair usually dries quickly (unless it is extremely dense), it is important to dry the root area first. Making sure the root is lifted off the head and any strong growth directions are neutralized is the key to a great blow dry! If you don’t want to dry your hair thoroughly, just focus on the root. Flipping your head upside down will add temporary volume but if the root is not dry then as it dries, it will fall down. Use medium or low heat at the root area if you have delicate hair.
3) Remember that hair is pliable when it is wet or hot. When I blow dry the root area, I generally do so with my hand. I start at one side of the head and blow the hair in different directions so it lifts off the head and doesn’t stick together too much and then I let the section cool in the opposite direction of where I will want it to lay. That way it is cooling down and setting while I work on the next section. Moving the hair back and forth in different directions will add volume and smoothness. The technique is called wrap drying. If you have a lot of breakage near the front hairline you may not want to wrap dry that part. Just blow those pieces where you want them to go if they are short and pokey. If they are longer it is usually fine to wrap dry.
4) When working with a round brush, make sure the nozzle is going in the same direction as the hair. The cuticle is like a bunch of scales that fold over each other, so if the nozzle is directing air down the hair shaft it will smooth the cuticle. Roll the hair on the brush and as the hair is cooling gently spin it off of the brush, if you can.
5) Be realistic and appreciate what you have! Focus on width, rather than height, when working with a brush because it is a more attainable way to get fullness into the hair. Not only is it more doable, it also creates a more modern look.
Questions? Comment below or come visit me at Jose Luis in Austin, TX.